Bernard Defaix's 2023 Bougros is where Chablis reaches its grandest expression. Perched dramatically on the Serein's steep right bank, this Grand Cru vineyard demands respect, and Defaix delivers it with precision. The wine bursts with citrus zest and white flowers, anchored by a striking wet stone minerality and taut, chalky structure that speaks pure limestone. Bright, persistent acidity keeps everything razor-focused and vibrant, while the wine's inherent power never overshadows its elegance. This is Chablis at its most compelling: structured and intense, yet expressive and alive. A wine that captures the drama of its terroir and rewards both immediate appreciation and patient cellaring.