Grillo in the hands of Sicily’s most influential traditionalists becomes something far more layered than a simple coastal white. Marco de Bartoli approaches it with the same discipline that shaped their historic Marsala, focusing on clarity, vineyard identity and low-intervention farming.

Grappoli del Grillo is the more structured expression of the grape, and the 2023 Riserva leans into that seriousness. Fruit comes from organically farmed vines and is selected for balance and completeness rather than sheer ripeness.

The aromatics sit in a tight register of lemon peel, ripe citrus and yellow apple, with almond, dried herbs and a faint saline note building underneath. There’s warmth to the fruit, but it stays controlled and never spills into excess.

On the palate it has a calm, steady presence. Lees ageing adds a soft, almost waxy texture, but the wine keeps its line thanks to bright acidity and a distinct coastal mineral edge. The finish is dry, slightly savoury and persistent, with a subtle nutty echo.

A composed, quietly serious Grillo that shows how far the variety can go when treated with restraint and focus.