Tōmi City, Nagano Prefecture, Japan

Yutaka Nakajima embodies the archetype of a Japanese winemaker: low-key, thoughtful and deeply hands-on. From his small mountain house, he farms quietly and works in the cellar entirely by hand, using self-made, hand-cranked wooden tools to craft wines of quiet precision.

At 850 metres above sea level in Tomi, Nagano, Domaine Nakajima sits within the Chikumagawa Wine Valley. The region's cooler, drier climate, closer to Europe than much of Japan, allows for the planting of primarily French varieties. Since 2011, Nakajima has cultivated Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Chenin Blanc on a small slope threaded with wild grasses and herbs. In 2019, he added a higher-altitude site planted to Savagnin and Pinot Noir. Production remains tiny, just a few thousand bottles annually, alongside this charming pét-nat made with local growers from the traditional hybrid grape Kyoho.

Pét Nat Rosé 2023

Undeniably unique, this pét-nat is made from Kyoho, a table grape variety known for its large, deeply coloured berries. After harvest, the grapes are dried for two weeks before being pressed without any skin contact and fermented in bottle without sulphur or other additives. The result is a wine of rare character, delicate and alive, with the kind of quiet individuality that defines everything Nakajima makes.