Jean-François Ganevat is one of the Jura’s most revered vignerons, a 14th-generation grower whose wines have become cult references for their precision, individuality and extraordinary longevity. Working organically and biodynamically, with old vines and an intensely parcel-driven approach, Ganevat combines meticulous vineyard work with remarkably patient, minimalist élevage. His wines possess a Burgundian finesse while retaining the wild, savoury and unmistakably Jura character that has made him one of the region’s icons.

Arbois Vin Jaune 2006 is one of the great traditional expressions of Ganevat’s work. Made from Savagnin, the grape behind the Jura’s legendary Vin Jaune, it comes from old vines and undergoes the region’s distinctive ageing beneath a veil of flor-like yeast. What makes Ganevat’s version particularly remarkable is his willingness to take the élevage far beyond the legal minimum, allowing the wine extraordinary time to develop complexity and depth. The 2006 is reported to have spent around 12 years in barrel, considerably longer than the six years and three months required for Vin Jaune.

The result is a profoundly complex and age-worthy wine, with classic Jura aromas of walnut, curry spice and dried fruit, joined by honey, candied quince, preserved citrus and earthy notes of dried mushroom and humus. There is also a beautiful thread of spice — white pepper and clove — running through the wine.

On the palate it is concentrated yet remarkably fresh, with a deep savoury character, firm mineral structure and extraordinary persistence. The long élevage has given the wine a remarkable sense of integration, balancing its oxidative, nutty complexity with freshness and energy. It is a wine that rewards time in the glass, revealing another layer with every sip.

A profound and exceptionally rare Vin Jaune from one of the Jura’s greatest names — complex, savoury, mineral and built for decades of further ageing.