Matelica gives us a very different side of Verdicchio. Tucked inland between the Apennines, the vineyards experience cool nights and significant temperature shifts, producing wines with more tension, structure and mineral character than you might expect from the variety.

Terravignata is wonderfully direct. Lemon peel, crunchy green apple and white flowers at first, then fresh almond, herbs and a distinctly stony character underneath. There is a little weight through the middle of the palate before that classic Verdicchio acidity takes over, leaving everything clean, dry and slightly saline.

A proper Italian white with plenty of personality for the money. The sort of bottle that makes a plate of grilled fish, anchovies or simple pasta considerably better.