Francesco Cirelli farms a beautiful organic estate in the hills of Abruzzo, where vineyards grow alongside olive groves, fig trees and woodland overlooking the Adriatic. His approach is refreshingly uncomplicated: meticulous farming, healthy fruit and very little interference in the cellar. The result is a collection of wines with remarkable purity, energy and an unmistakably Italian sense of place.

La Collina Biologica Rosso is Cirelli at his most immediately delicious. Made from Montepulciano, it’s bright, juicy and wonderfully expressive, with all the generosity of Abruzzo wrapped in a fresh, vibrant style. This is proper Italian table wine, made for good food, long lunches and bottles that seem to empty far too quickly.

Wild cherry, ripe raspberry and juicy plum lead into violets, dried Mediterranean herbs and a touch of earthy spice. The palate is supple and energetic, with beautifully fresh acidity, gentle tannins and a savoury edge running underneath the fruit. There’s plenty of character here, but nothing heavy or overworked. Serve it at cellar temperature or give it a slight chill and put something good on the table.