Rami sits in that wonderful space between white and orange wine. COS brings together two of Sicily's traditional white varieties, Grecanico and Insolia, then allows the juice time with the skins to build texture, perfume and gentle tannin.

Apricot skin, mandarin and preserved lemon come first, followed by chamomile, dried Mediterranean herbs and a little spice. There is grip across the palate, but nothing feels heavy or overly extracted. Instead, the skin contact gives the wine another dimension, finishing dry, savoury and slightly salty.

Not orange wine for the sake of being orange wine. This is a genuinely gastronomic Sicilian white with texture, structure and plenty of character.