Saint-Andelain, Pouilly-Fumé, Loire Valley, France

Didier Dagueneau is one of the names that changed the way the world sees Sauvignon Blanc. Through uncompromising vineyard work, tiny yields and a relentless pursuit of terroir expression, he transformed Loire Sauvignon into wines of extraordinary depth, texture and ageing potential. Today the domaine is led by his son Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau, who continues the same meticulous approach in vineyard and cellar.

Silex 2023

Silex is the ultimate Dagueneau wine. Super-mineral, pure and crystalline, it is produced exclusively from the flint-rich soils on the north-facing slopes of the hill of Saint-Andelain. The vines range between 35 and 65 years old, and yields are kept lower than anywhere else in the domaine. Silex ferments and ages in Dagueneau's famed cigar-shaped barrels and other casks, with a portion now maturing in 220-litre Wineglobe glass vessels that avoid reduction and allow for lower SO₂ levels.

Because of the soil type and the concentration of the mature vines, Silex is always intense and often austere when young, typically requiring five to ten years to truly express itself. The 2023 is a little more open than usual, yet still tightly coiled and incredibly complex, with citrus, nectarine, sage and sea spray. Clearly built for ageing, it nonetheless makes for wonderful drinking now, especially with a good decant.

Only 150 bottles shipped to Australia. Production is extremely limited. Once it is gone, it is gone.