Shangri-La, Yunnan, China

One of the most exciting wines to emerge from China, Domaine de la Gyalthang is made by Ian Dai in the extraordinary high-altitude vineyards of Shangri-La, Yunnan. Sitting at more than 2,500 metres above sea level on the Tibetan Plateau, these vineyards are about as far removed from the classic Chardonnay regions of the world as you can get.

The altitude brings remarkable natural freshness and intensity to the fruit. The 2023 is bright and aromatic, showing lemon, mandarin, green apple and white peach alongside jasmine, dried flowers and subtle savoury notes. A touch of skin contact brings a gentle phenolic texture through the palate, balanced by fine acidity and a long, mineral finish. It has plenty of character without becoming heavy or overly oxidative, sitting somewhere between a serious alpine Chardonnay and the more adventurous end of natural wine.

Domaine de la Gyalthang is part of the new generation of Chinese producers showing just how diverse and exciting the country’s wine regions can be. Rather than relying on ripeness or oak, the focus is firmly on freshness, texture and the unique character of these extreme mountain vineyards.