Jean-François Ganevat is one of the Jura’s most revered vignerons, a 14th-generation grower whose wines have become cult references for their precision, individuality and sheer drinkability. Working organically and biodynamically across an exceptional collection of old-vine parcels, Ganevat combines meticulous vineyard work with a minimalist approach in the cellar. His wines possess a Burgundian finesse while retaining the freshness, energy and unmistakable personality of the Jura.

L’Enfant Terrible is one of Ganevat’s emblematic red cuvées, showcasing Poulsard, the wonderfully delicate and characterful grape of the Jura. The 2023 comes from old vines planted on the domaine’s white and grey marl soils, with some parcels dating back to 1949 and 1959. The grapes are hand-harvested and naturally vinified with indigenous yeasts, with a gentle, cold semi-carbonic maceration designed to preserve the perfume and freshness of the fruit.

The wine is aged for around 12 months in old wooden vessels, allowing the fruit and mineral character to remain firmly in the foreground. There is no fining, filtration or added sulphur, resulting in a wine of remarkable purity and transparency.

The 2023 is wonderfully expressive, opening with wild strawberry, redcurrant, raspberry and bright cherry, alongside delicate floral notes of peony and rose. With air, subtle spice, incense and a touch of earthy forest floor begin to emerge. The palate is silky, fluid and incredibly fresh, with fine tannins and bright acidity giving the wine energy and lift.

This is Poulsard at its most seductive: light on its feet but not lacking in character, with a juicy, savoury quality and a long, mineral finish. There is a slight natural spritz when first opened that can be released with a gentle shake or a little air.

A beautifully pure and expressive Jura red — fragrant, silky, mineral and dangerously drinkable. L’Enfant Terrible is Ganevat doing what he does best: turning one of the Jura’s most delicate grapes into something utterly compelling.