Jean-François Ganevat is one of the Jura’s most revered vignerons, a 14th-generation grower whose wines have become cult references for their precision, individuality and extraordinary longevity. Working organically and biodynamically across an exceptional collection of old-vine parcels, Ganevat combines meticulous vineyard work with remarkably patient élevage. His wines possess a Burgundian finesse while retaining the wild, savoury and unmistakably Jura character that has made him one of the region’s icons.

Ganevat’s Vin Jaune 2016 is a profound expression of 100% Savagnin, sourced from old vines planted on the blue marl soils of the Côtes du Jura. The wine is made in the traditional sous voile style, spending more than nine years under flor-like yeast in barrel without being topped up. The extended élevage gives the wine extraordinary concentration and complexity while preserving the vibrant acidity for which the 2016 vintage is particularly distinguished.

The nose is intensely complex, moving from fresh walnut, pecan and dried fruit into curry, saffron, spice, smoke and mineral notes, with further layers of preserved citrus, quince and dried herbs emerging with air. On the palate, it is powerful and concentrated but remarkably fresh, the high natural acidity giving the wine a wonderfully taut and energetic shape.

The finish is exceptionally long and saline, with the characteristic nutty and spicy character of great Vin Jaune lingering for minutes. This is a wine that rewards patience: open it well in advance and allow it to slowly unfold in the glass. It has the structure to evolve for decades.

Presented in the traditional 62cl clavelin, this is a serious collector’s bottle and one of the great expressions of Ganevat’s Savagnin. It is magnificent with Comté, morels, roast poultry or rich, spice-driven dishes, but is equally compelling as a wine to savour on its own.

Profound, intensely savoury and extraordinarily long, the 2016 Vin Jaune is Ganevat at his most serious — a monumental Jura wine built for the cellar.