Markus Altenburger is one of the most interesting winemakers working in Austria's Burgenland, producing wines from organically farmed vineyards around Jois, on the limestone-rich slopes of Leithaberg. Although best known for his Blaufränkisch, Markus has also built a reputation for his more experimental whites, where different varieties, skin contact and traditional fermentation methods come together in wines that remain remarkably precise and enjoyable to drink.

WEISS Skin & Stones 2023 is a blend of Grüner Veltliner, Welschriesling, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Neuburger and Muskat Ottonel. The grapes come from several vineyards around Jois, with a portion fermented on skins to bring additional texture and aromatic complexity. Natural fermentation and maturation in concrete and oak help preserve the wine's freshness while allowing the different varieties to come together.

It's a beautifully aromatic white, with ripe peach, apricot, orange peel, dried flowers and a little herbal spice. The palate has lovely texture, a gentle grip from the skins and enough acidity to keep everything fresh. There's a savoury, slightly saline character through the finish that makes it particularly good with food.

A really interesting skin-contact white that doesn't rely on excessive extraction or funk to make an impression. Plenty of flavour, plenty of character and very enjoyable drinking from one of Austria's most exciting growers.