Forget the big, sweet and heavily extracted Primitivo that has come to define the variety for many drinkers. Pietraventosa works in Gioia del Colle, where altitude and limestone-rich soils allow Primitivo to show considerably more freshness and detail.

Volere Volare is full of dark cherry, wild plum and blackberry, but the interesting part comes from everything around the fruit: dried Mediterranean herbs, black pepper, tobacco and a slightly earthy, savoury edge. It has generosity without heaviness, with soft tannins and enough acidity to keep the wine moving.

Rich enough for anyone looking for a proper southern Italian red, but fresh enough that we would happily put it in the fridge for 20 minutes before opening.