Really hard to get...

One of the most distinctive and traditionally made white wines in Spain, R. López de Heredia (founded 1877 in Haro) is a reference point for long-aged, classical Rioja. The estate is defined by a philosophy that prioritises time over speed, with wines released only after extended ageing in old oak and bottle, once they have fully integrated and reached their intended expression.

Viña Gravonia comes from very old vines, in this case around 93 years of age, and sits as one of the most characterful whites in the portfolio. Although technically classified as a Crianza, its ageing regime often exceeds what would qualify as a Gran Reserva under Rioja regulations, reflecting the estate’s belief in patience rather than categorisation.

The 2017 vintage was one of the most extreme and challenging in recent Rioja history, marked by severe April frost followed by drought conditions. It resulted in the earliest, smallest and fastest harvest in the estate’s modern history, with fruit picked as early as mid-September. Despite the difficult season, the old vines provided enough concentration and balance to produce a wine of clarity and identity.

The wine is fermented in ancient oak vats with indigenous yeasts and then aged for approximately four years in well-seasoned American oak barrels before extended bottle maturation, continuing the estate’s signature slow development style. Bottling took place in September 2023 after extended élevage.

In the glass, the 2017 shows an unmistakable López de Heredia aromatic profile, opening with mushroom, white pepper, pollen and subtle oxidative complexity reminiscent of the estate’s historic cellars. With air it expands into layers of dried citrus peel, beeswax, roasted nuts and faint petrol-like development, balanced by a persistent savoury freshness.

The palate is light to medium-bodied but deeply structured, defined by vibrant acidity and a fine, linear texture. Flavours move through citrus oil, saline notes, spice and nutty complexity, finishing long, dry and slightly savoury with a distinctive bitter edge that adds definition and length. Despite its evolution, it remains focused and energetic rather than heavy.

Wine Advocate (Robert Parker) 94+ points (Luis Gutiérrez) highlights its unmistakable house style, noting mushroom, white pepper and pollen aromas alongside a lightly developed yet highly harmonious palate. The review emphasises its balance, character and value, describing it as a wine of nuance and precision that could easily sit at a higher classification level given its ageing regime and complexity. Only around 20,000 bottles were produced.