Wasenhaus is one of the most exciting names in contemporary German wine. Founded in Baden by Christoph Wolber and Alexander Götze, the project grew out of a shared love of Burgundy and a belief in making wines that express their origins with as little intervention as possible. Both spent formative years working in Burgundy before returning to Germany, and that experience remains an important influence on their approach.

The Chardonnay Landwein 2022 comes from Baden, Germany’s warmest wine-growing region and one of the country’s most natural homes for Chardonnay. Wasenhaus works with organically farmed vineyards and takes a patient, traditional approach in the cellar, favouring spontaneous fermentation and élevage that allows the wine to develop complexity without losing its sense of place.

The result is a beautifully distinctive Chardonnay. The 2022 offers ripe citrus, yellow apple and stone fruit, with subtle notes of hazelnut and spice. There is a wonderful combination of texture and tension, with fine acidity and a mineral edge keeping everything focused and fresh.

This is not Chardonnay in a heavily oaked, international style. Instead, it is restrained, savoury and quietly complex, with the elegance of Burgundy but a personality that is unmistakably its own. A serious and fascinating wine from one of Germany's most compelling young producers.