Acios da Xesteirina comes from the original 1980s plantings behind the Xesteirina farmhouse in Sanxenxo, Valle do Salnes. The vineyard sits on a rare strip of reddish Granodiorite, a bedrock almost entirely absent from the rest of Salnes where granitic and sandy soils dominate. With only a thin layer of brown loam topsoil above the rock, the old vines have sunk their roots deep into the fissures of the bedrock, producing an Albarino of intensity and texture that is genuinely unlike anything else in the region. Wild fermented, unsulphured and taken through full malolactic, the wine is held together by a spine of fierce natural acidity.

The vineyard has been farmed organically since its replanting in 1986, entirely without soil inputs or plowing, a deliberate choice by owner Jose Manuel to keep the microbial life of the soil as close as possible to that of the native forest bordering the estate. An Agricultural Engineer by trade, Jose Manuel is a fourth-generation farmer here who has tended every vine and shoot for decades with quiet, methodical care. In the winery beneath the farmhouse, he works without additions, allowing all wines to stabilise naturally in a mixture of chestnut and old oak, aided by sommelier and natural wine importer Adrian Guerra.

The result is a wine that is wild and hedonistic but never unmoored, a singular expression of one of the most unusual vineyard sites in Rias Baixas.